Houpelandes

Background:

These Houpelandes were completed for the Coronation of Hanse III and Olivia I - 4/21/01 A.S. XXXV

Materials:

The houpelandes are made from patterned cotton brocade. The patterns are "periodesque." Linings and underclothes are satin, cotton and "mixed fibers." Stuffing is poly-fil. Most of the materials were what was available when I commenced making the outfits and, unfortunately, are not period.

Construction:

Patterns were drafted based on limited research for the men's houpelande and the body of the female houpelande. I really wanted open sleeves and Mistress Olivia Graeme provided me with a heart-shaped sleeve pattern that gives the appearance of the open sleeves of the period, without having to set the sleeve in sideways so that it falls open properly. The open sleeve style lent itself to beading (many hours of beading). The collar was also beaded. The female underdress fabric is the color that was requested of me to wear (to match the overdress), but is not a material that I like. The underdress was never finished. The buttons only go halway to the elbows and the trim on the collar should be replaced with something better. The belt also needs a metal closure, but I have been unable to find one that I liked and looked relatively period.

The male hat is of black cotton fabric sewn in a tube and stuffed and then sewn in a circle. Dagging was added after the base was completed. I would make this a little differently next time. The female hat was based on a pattern provided to me by Mistress Danabren Madadh-Mara. After making the tube of fabric and stuffing, a wire is added. The wire/hat is shaped in a heart to fit to your head and sewn shut. It's not as easy as it sounds. The hat was then worn over a snood with my hairpiled over my ears.

Bibliography:

Holkeboer, Katherine Strand. Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915. Drama Book Publishers, NY. 1984.
Kohler, Carl. A History of Costume. Dover Publications, Inc., NY. 1928.
Peacock, John. Costume 100-1990s. Thames and Hudson, Inc., NY. 1994