Blustery Conditions Hardanger

This was a kit for a class sponsored by the Embroiderers' Guild of America (EGA) taught by Terri Bay Needlework Designs.  Obviously, I fell behind and put it in time out.  I've now picked it up 2 years later to finish it as part of the Athena's Thimble 100 days of Embroidery.  

The kit included: 12" square of 28 count cashel linen in white, 1 ball DMC pearl cotton size 8 in snow white (B5200), 1 ball DMC pearl cotton size 12 in snow white (B5200) and two tapestry needles in size 24 and 26.

Stitches used: satin, blanket, kloster, ship, double cable, woven bars, wrapped bars, lacy edge, twisted spokes, Algerian eyelet, buttonhole eyelet, Dove’s Eye, Crossed Dove’s Eye, Greek Cross, and lacy daisy

There were 7 weeks of instruction.  Each week we were expected to complete that weeks lesson and report back.  The classes started July 5, 2023.  Needless to say, I fell WAY behind doing Part 1 and by the time we got to Part 2, the button hole stitches around the outside, I gave up.  The Keepers of Athena's Thimble is hosting a 100-day embroidery challenge and I managed to completed the rest of this in 18 days.  Never give up.

The finished piece

Lesson One: Klosters, Satin Stitches and Ship Motifs - These stitches are considered the building blocks of Hardanger.  A Kloster is a block of five satin stitches over four fabric threads.  Satin Stitches are straight stitches. They may be over any number of fabric threads.  The ship motif is a combination of satin stitches in the stylized shape of a Viking long boat.

Lesson Two: Blanket Stitch - The blanket stitch is what holds this piece together when the excess fabric is cut away. It is worked all of the way around the design. It is also worked around the Kloster variation in the center. Blanket stitch is the most commonly used edging in Hardanger.

You can see part of Part 1 to the right and where I was continuing Part 2.  I can't find any pics from before I restarted the project and didn't take one before continuing on.

Lesson Three: Double Cable and Eyelets - The double cable is two rows of cable stitch with the center line doubled. It is a very commonly used stitch in Hardanger and many other whitework genres.  It makes a solid raised line creating texture and is often used as a dividing line between sections of a design.  Eyelets come in many shapes and sizes. In this design, a small, square Algerian Eyelet is worked.  An Algerian Eyelet has empty spaces between the stitches at the outer edge of the eyelet, which differs from a “regular” eyelet that has a stitch in every hole at the outer edge. The other eyelet used is commonly called a buttonhole eyelet, even though it is worked with the blanket stitch.

  

On the right is a closeup of the double cable at the top of the square.  To the right the double cable is completed and some of the eyelets started.  Some of my eyelets are perfect and some I ripped out and redid 4 or 5 times and just left them wonky.  

Lesson Four: Cutting Fabric Threads - this was nerve-wracking and, of course, I did cut the wrong threads at one point, but managed to fix it by weaving new threads in to replace the ones I cut.  Normally you would weave them in from one side of the fabric to the other, but in this case I did not have to but had to be careful to catch all the stitches I'd already completed on the fabric.


I accidentally cut the threads in the bottom right "window".  You can see where I too 4 threads from the side of the canvas and wove them from a little farther in, through the area they needed to be and into the fabric edge that will be cut off.  You cannot tell in the right picture that I made the repair - whew!

Lesson Five: Filling Stitches - Filling stitches are one of the hallmarks of Hardanger. The fabric threads remaining after the cutting can be either woven or wrapped into bars. Further ornamentation is added to the bars, either during the wrapping or weaving, or after the wrapping or weaving is finished.  Woven bars are a mainstay of Hardanger embroidery. The four fabric threads left after the cutting in Lesson Four will be woven together in a figure eight pattern two threads over and two threads under.  The bars are further embellished with Dove’s Eyes. The Dove’s Eyes are worked in the open squares left by the fabric threads that have been removed. They are a looped stitch which means the pearl cotton loops over itself in the stitch.  Some of the Dove’s Eyes are embellished one step further with crosses. The crosses are simple to add, and have a woven appearance.  Wrapped bars are also common. The fabric threads are wrapped with the pearl cotton either in pairs or groups of four.  Some of the wrapped bars in this design have weaving incorporated into them to create a Greek Cross, and others are embellished with Dove’s Eyes.

The four "points" have the wrapping with crosses with 3 of the circles having doves eyes.  I messed up and didn't read ahead here so I had done the wrapping and crosses for all of the circles and then realized I shouldn't have.  I just moved forward and did the doves eye part as it would have looked with the singular cross and left the doubles rather than cutting and re-stitching them all.  READ AHEAD!  Took me a bit to understand the Greek crosses, but 4 of those and the 4 Doves eyes underneath the points were all done "correctly".  

Lesson Six: Woven Bars, Crossed Dove’s Eyes, and the Lacy Daisy - The bars in the center are woven as in lesson five, and some Crossed Dove’s Eyes are worked along the outer edges of the center.  The Lacy Daisy will be worked in the very center of the design. The Lacy Daisy is a looped and woven filling stitch. It is worked independently of the woven bars and will be  worked with a loose tension. The thread needs to be able to curve and wrap around the bars.

  

On the left the wrap and Doves eyes done correctly.  The lacy daisy is there but not very visible.  On the right a closeup of the lacy daisy as I'm making it.

Lesson Seven: Lacy Edge and cutting the design from the fabric - The lacy edge is a delicate looking edging worked with woven bars and blanket stitches. Don’t let that delicate appearance fool you. It is stronger than it appears due to some reinforcing stitches worked before the bars are woven.  It is worked primarily with woven bars, having blanket stitches added at the outermost corners.

The lacy edge part did scare me for a moment and then I read about cutting it out and that made me anxious.  So you cut and pull the threads, wrap most of the bars and then do a fancy button hole finish on the last round  Once the threads were cut and removed, this part was fairly quick, but - then you have to cut the whole thing out....  I managed to do it - and this is the finished piece.

Finished piece front

Finished piece back



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